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essays | places


a fine study at the continental intersection



Sighnaghi / Georgia · 2018   from the roofs to the mountains 



   Georgia was a multiflavored delicacy. I cut it open from east to west and took three bites out of it – Sighnaghi, Tbilisi, Chiatura – and they all appealed to different regions of the palate. Chiatura was almost raw and Tbilisi medium rare and Sighnaghi was very well done. I’ll be back for more if I can get away with it.

My sampling allowed for plenty of other conclusions and fun insights, e.g. that Georgia is two thirds West and one third East, and that the most eastern town I visited looked the most western and vice versa. Indeed, my methodology was sound and my sample size of three absolutely conclusive and significant. A fine study mine.


a glimpse

Like elevators, just different, the cable cars have been flying since Stalin's day to get the miners into the mountain.

Chiatura / Georgia · 2018   flying elevator

Clock tower in Tbilisi, Georgia

Tbilisi / Georgia · 2018  nutty clock tower



Chiatura / Georgia · 2018  apartment cluster


Side street in Tbilisi, Georgia

Tbilisi / Georgia · 2018  back-alley front yard


Apartment building in Chiatura, Georgia

Chiatura/ Georgia · 2018  Soviet pastel


reliable until back in fashion 

Sighnaghi / Georgia · 2018  tada, Lada






places / stories

Chiatura / Soviet Ghost

Chiatura / Georgia · 2018   yesterday, at the cable car station



I arrived under a blue sky like underwater, short thoughts and long feelings running loose inside me. To visit a mining town that others toil in, is one of the dirtier forms of entertainment, travel, curiosity. I’ve never been inside a mine for longer than I liked or for any other reason than excitement. Miners, I salute you, but I am not worthy of the dirt between your nails and your calloused fingertips. And I’m thinking this, luxuriously, from a distance, years later, while walking through a golden Saturday night in Paris with a cute buzz buzzing through my marrow, head tingle to toe tingle, and now I’m writing it in a little cozy notebook my mama gave me, all the while simmering blissfully in one of these orange gaslight puddles that bathe Paris’ wealthy stone, a writer in a city that does all the writing for you. It is less than unlikely that I can hold a candle to you in this lifetime, miner men.

Chiatura / Georgia · 2018   midair nap


They send them off into the mountains in rectangular metal boxes that might as well be coffins. Death taking off at dawn, everybody aboard. I would have ridden them, again, for pleasure, for kicks, for photos, for understanding something at best, but there was a power outage that day and so they dangled in midair over rivers, roads, and canyons, hopefully empty.


Chiatura / Georgia · 2018   suspended church



Chiatura / Georgia · 2018   miner mural



Chiatura / Georgia · 2018   mining town perched in the canyon



Katskhi pillar / Georgia · 2018   taxi driver


Vanished, quite literally, from the face of the earth, a monk lived atop the pillar in maximum solitude. When I was there, he had descended, like a bearded angel with some weekly worldly business. His ascend was, yet again quite literally, via a stairway to heaven, some 100 steel rungs populating a 40-meter ladder that wasn’t for the faint-hearted or those with mushy limbs.


Tbilisi / You, Me, Let's See

Tbilisi / Georgia · 2018  sky turning cosmos


Tbilisi, squeeze me once more someday. Squeeze your way under my skin and into the tissue and bury yourself in me because I know you well enough to know you belong there even though I hardly know you at all. Not love on first sight, no, but infatuation, yes, very yes, very you and me, very let’s see.



Tbilisi / Georgia · 2018  books and a palace



Tbilisi / Georgia · 2018  bright light, night outside


Tbilisi / Georgia · 2018  riding the cable



Tbilisi / Georgia · 2018  let sleeping dogs lie


Sighnaghi / No Shower, Free Wine


Sighnaghi / Georgia · 2018  vantage town



Sighnaghi / Georgia · 2018  concrete terrace



Sighnaghi / Georgia · 2018  orthodox guardian


Sighnaghi / Georgia · 2018  rusty roof


My room didn't have a bathroom and the bathroom I could use was the restaurant's bathroom, which, naturally, had no shower. My hosts were surprised that I was surprised. They gave me a bottle of wine and a smile, and we called it even.


Sighnaghi / Georgia · 2018  room and space



Sighnaghi / Georgia · 2018   living with a view


Sighnaghi / Georgia · 2018  the fastest shadows fall the deepest



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