MilesAstray | Sri Lanka
top of page



essays | places


Sri Lanka

tiny giant

 

Pottuvil / Sri Lanka · 2015   tree temple

  

______

   Coming in from nearby Tamil Nadu, Sri Lanka felt like a soberer, stiller India, even though it was so much more concentrated, size-wise. Similar colors, semi-similar culture, but a little less randomness and scatter-stuff. It was like a slow detox, sipping on the light version of the same juice. Excellent juice, made from ocean and tea and sari-colors.

______

a glimpse

 
passages   TRAIN TRACK TREK TALES | Leading past ocean horizons, snuggly tea-valleys, and neon rice, Sri Lanka’s train journeys are de facto destinations, at least for tourists. But the train tracks carry more stories to those who listen: plots of struggles, resilience, and fortitude, plots of the people, of the people who travel the rails by foot, who live the rails.



 

Elephant with one tusk in Minneriya National Park, Sri Lanka

 
passages   THE LAST TUSK |

Just one more, we said. One more can’t hurt. Let’s take that one.

Just one more, we said, again and again.

Until one day, there was just one more.




 

DSC_0553.jpg

 
Sri Lanka · 2015   train worm



 

DSC_0609.jpg

 
Little Adam's Peak, Ella / Sri Lanka · 2015   green neck



 

DSC_0473.jpg

 
Kandy / Sri Lanka · 2015   fountain heart



 

DSC_1241 (3).jpg

Oh, sweet salt water. To play in you, to be in you. 
_____

 Trincomalee / Sri Lanka · 2015   green coast

Snorkels, sharks, sunburns.
_____

Nilaveli / Sri Lanka · 2015   looking forward

DSC_1222 (2).jpg

 

 

 

 

__________

places / stories

_____
Arugam Bay / Not That Serious

DSC_0932.jpg

 
Arugam Bay / Sri Lanka · 2015   catching a ride to the shore



 

Arugam Bay was a little too cozy, too surfy, too soft and sweet to be taken completely seriously, but I made some suitcase friends who were less bland than many backpackers.



 

DSC_0695 (2).jpg
DSC_0918.jpg

 
Arugam Bay / Sri Lanka · 2015   no worry



 

 
Arugam Bay / Sri Lanka · 2015   bay for a day



 

Next door Pottuvil looked like it had never seen a tourist. If Arugam was a bubble, Pottuvil was whatever is left when a bubble bursts – free molecules, flying and falling and dancing.



 

DSC_0697.jpg

 
Pottuvil / Sri Lanka · 2015   beach religion



 

One day we took a little trip to Kudumbigala, a rock monastery whose monks sure knew where to put their workplace. Those views.



 

DSC_0766.jpg
DSC_0864.jpg

 
Kudumbigala / Sri Lanka · 2015   into the wind



 

 
Kudumbigala / Sri Lanka · 2015   atop a rock



 

DSC_0850.jpg

 
Kudumbigala / Sri Lanka · 2015   top of the rock



 

DSC_0872.jpg

 
Kudumbigala / Sri Lanka · 2015   stony tongue



 

On the way back, we saw a giant, but I already told you that little story here.



 

_____
Sigiriya & Minneriya / Safari Ethics 

DSC_1304.jpg

 
Sigiriya / Sri Lanka · 2015   top rock



 

That one was another penniless year for me, so we snuck into Sigiriya. Not all the way up the fat rock. Just a little, past the fence and close enough to get a sense for its dimensions. 



 

DSC_1211 (2).jpg
DSC_1227.jpg

 
Minneriya / Sri Lanka · 2015   convoy



 

 
Minneriya / Sri Lanka · 2015   only child



 

The interaction, or rather non-interaction, between jeeps and elephants at the world's largest Asian elephant gathering at Minneriya National Park was respectful until it wasn't. Some drivers stopped just a little short of those elephant toes and the mothers would start shielding their clumsy offspring. A common argument is that tourism helps conservation, but it's probably not a good sign if the only thing that keeps us from annexing every last non-human habitat is a bit of petty cash.




 

DSC_1135.jpg

 
Minneriya / Sri Lanka · 2015   line-ups



 

_____
Hikkaduwa / Smiles

DSC_1036.jpg

 
Hikkaduwa / Sri Lanka · 2015   beach bliss



 

Hikkaduwa was a popular beach haven, discovered by the hippies and exploited by those who followed. I stopped by an orphanage that was affiliated, at the time, with a nonprofit I know, and they received me like an inspector. Everything was neat and clean, and some smiles were put on, but it was clear that it wasn't all smiles.



 

DSC_1047.jpg
DSC_1058.jpg

 
Hikkaduwa / Sri Lanka · 2015   smiley



 

 
Hikkaduwa / Sri Lanka · 2015   order in the zoo



 

_____
South Coast / Hopping

DSC_0957 - Copy.jpg
DSC_0961.jpg

 
Tangalle / Sri Lanka · 2015   in the shop



 

 
Tangalle / Sri Lanka · 2015   fishing armada



 

DSC_0964.jpg

 
Tangalle / Sri Lanka · 2015   fisherman hut



 

With all its little town truffles, the South Coast had me quite the hopper. Pre-industrial fishing, temple islets, old town colors, it all sat well with me. 




 

DSC_1013.jpg
DSC_1003.jpg

 
Weligama / Sri Lanka · 2015   palmy drop



 

DSC_1021.jpg

 
Galle / Sri Lanka · 2015   cozy cobble



 

 
Matara / Sri Lanka · 2015   opportune temple



 

DSC_1090.jpg

 
Sri Lanka · 2015   ocean train



 

My journey started and ended in Colombo, but I was too busy arriving and departing to take pictures.




 

_______

elsewhere

bottom of page