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essays | places


less thirsty for the falls




Livingstone / Zambia · 2017   street normalities



   The falls fell and they fell plenty, and while that seems to be implied in the name Victoria Falls, it’s Victoria Walls during dry season.

And Livingstone was plenty green and that isn’t always a given either with towns and stuff. My tent was happy to have me back, because it isn’t really itself when it isn’t pitched.

And Lusaka was Lusaka. I don’t know what else to tell you. I waited out the two weeks to the wedding, worked a lot, walked some, and didn’t find out a single thing about this capital. It was my 6th year on the road and sometimes it felt like I’d clocked off already. I was sluggish and less thirsty, a bit of a mushy vegetable here and there.


a glimpse

passages   ENTREPRENEURS | In parts of the world where people work towards the next meal and not success, where they have less than little, where visions are lived from day to day, where no government backs them, where nobody gets a handout, where education and opportunity aren’t givens, where the grip of circumstance is firm and the odds stacked against change, you find resolute, resourceful and meritorious entrepreneurs at every corner.

the best view for free, I take it

Victoria Falls Bridge / Zambia · 2017   viewtiful


in the place to be, teddies riding free

Lusaka / Zambia · 2017   blue teddy






places / stories

Victoria Falls / Season Reason


Victoria Falls / Zambia · 2017   water ghosts



There was a dualism to the falls and no way other than luck to squeeze yourself in-between. During dry season the falls were just walls, while rainy season had them so swollen with water and mist that they seemed to swallow themselves.

Victoria Falls / Zambia · 2017   black frame


The rainbows were the silver linings of the mist, and sometimes there were two of these rainbow linings at once.


Victoria Falls / Zambia · 2017   when one rainbow just isn't enough


Lizzard at Victoria Falls in Zambia

Victoria Falls / Zambia · 2017   lizzard queen


Monkeys at Victoria Falls in Zambia

Victoria Falls / Zambia · 2017   monkey prince


Two cars after collision, accident

Victoria Falls / Zambia · 2017   metal kiss


Livingstone / Greener


Livingstone / Zambia · 2017   no dumping


Livingstone / Zambia · 2017   plots 4 sale


Those who had been told those who hadn’t that Livingstone was green, green, green, but arriving with these expectations, it was more green, green than green, green, green.


DSC_4527 (3).jpg

Livingstone / Zambia · 2017   cruel beauty


Livingstone / Zambia · 2017   holy brick



Livingstone / Zambia · 2017   water box


Lusaka / Bubbly


Lusaka / Zambia · 2017   accept land or car


Lusaka had grey parts and green parts, and if you were to sit in a satellite and look down, you’d know very well what I mean, and I was in a green part – Kabulonga – where life was easier. And in my green bubble Lusaka didn’t feel like a city of millions or a city of poverty, but like a large park with houses and mansions and malls in it, with high walls and strong fences to keep the bubble bubbly.



Lusaka / Zambia · 2017   top floor brand


Lusaka / Zambia · 2017   concrete cluster



Lusaka / Zambia · 2017   mansion muscle




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